EAT DRINK TRAVEL

Amma–a family-owned restaurant in midtown Manhattan–offers stellar service and memorable fare

DATELINE:  SPRING 2009, NEW YORK

“I love Amma, too!” says cookbook author and Indian culinary expert, Julie Sahni when I phoned her yesterday. I’d just dined at Amma and adored everything about it.

Sahni (a renowned cookbook author and dear friend who has even dined at my Thanksgiving table) agreed.  “It’s a family-run business and I know them well,” says Sahni.  “It’s a great place.”

That’s all I needed:  Sahni’s stamp of approval.

The moment I stepped into Amma (246 E. 51st St.) I felt embraced, as if my mother–or someone’s Indian mother–was hugging me.  The food was superb (great for vegetarians, as well as carnivores), the atmosphere warm and friendly, and–much to my delight–there are Indian wines on the wine list.

Named for the Hindi word for “mother”, the fare from Amma’s kitchen tastes like home-cooking:  lovingly prepared and easy to enjoy–just like Mama, err, I mean Amma–used to make.

For the past two years, I’ve spent a month in India; since I won’t be going to the subcontinent in 2009, I decided to get my “fix” by dining on Indian fare while I was in New York last week.  I was not disappointed.

After a dynamite palate-teaser, Bombay Behru (small corn, lentil and rice fritters with mint and tamarind chutneys), I dined on crispy fried okra, Cucumber Raita and Dum Aloo  for a well-rounded meal that left me feeling satiated but not stuffed.  To drink?  Grover Vineyards crisp, fruity Viognier from vineyards near Bangalore.

Julie Sahni generously gave me permission to reprint her Dum Aloo recipe, which is a filling and mildly spicy dish that can be served as a side or as a main course.

Whole Potatoes in Spicy Yogurt Gravy (Dum Aloo)

Serves 6-8

12 even-sized small boiling potatoes (about 2 pounds)

7 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onions

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger root

2 teaspoons ground cumin

4 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 teaspoon Mughal  garam masala

(nb: Sahni perfers the gentler Mughal garam masala instead of commercially available garam masala for this recipe.  Check Sahni’s books for the recipe!)

2 cups canned tomato puree (preferably organic)

2/3 cup plain yogurt

4 teaspoons Kosher salt

2/3 cup heavy cream

1. Peel potatoes and prick them with a thin skewer or knife in 4-5 places.  Put into a bowl of cold water until ready to use.

2. Heat 5 tablespoons oil in a large non-stick skillet that can hold all the potatoes in one layer over medium-high heat. When the oil is very hot, drain potatoes, pat dry, then add.  Cook until they have several tiny browned spots and a crust (8-10 minutes), turning and tossing as you cook to ensure even browning.  Transfer potatoes to a bowl.

3. Add the remaining oil to the pan along with the onions.  Cook until onions turn medium-brown, about 15 minutes, stirring constantly so they do not burn.  Add ginger, and cook 1/2 minute.  Add cumin, coriander, turmeric, red pepper, and Mughal garam masala all at once, and stir rapidly for 15 seconds.  Add tomatoes, yogurt, salt, and the fried potatoes (in one layer) and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer gently, covered, 35 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Check during cooking to make sure gravy is not sticking or burning.  Gravy should be thick enough to coat the potatoes.  If It looks thhin and runny, increase heat and boil rapidly, uncovered, until it reduces to desired cosistency.  If gravy is too thick, add a few tablespoons water.

4. Add cream, stir, and simmer until heated through. For a milder flavor, add up to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil.  Taste for salt, and serve.

Printed with permission from Julie Sahni from her book, Classic Indian Cooking (William Morrow and Company, Inc., New York).  For more about Julie’s books, cooking classes, and culinary tours to India, go to www.juliesahni.com.

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